Los Angeles County, Los Angeles Rat Control Situation:
Hi David, I'm in southern California. I have at least one rat in my ceiling, maybe two or more. I've read your website and really appreciate the great insight you're providing. Based on your advice, I've caught 3 rats around the outside my house (over the last 2 months), trimmed trees back (3 days ago), and plugged all the access holes I could identify (3 weeks ago).
Yet I still have at least one rat in my attic. Though I've place several snap traps (baited with peanut butter and bird seed) in the attic, I get no nibbles. I also cannot find any evidence of their paths. I've moved the trap several time with no success. From inside the house, I hear them in sections of the attic (about 3:00 am) that are completely inaccessible to me (because of firewalls.)
So I hired a pest extermination company. For $275 they put some poison bait stations outside, and three snap traps in the attic that are baited with a beef jerkey substance. The traps are near the attic access panel - not near the rat noise activity. The guy's reply was that the scent would lure them. He also reviewed my hole-plugging and said it was fine. He didn't get onto my roof. It's been three days and I check the snap traps in the morning and around dusk each night.
My questions are:
1. Is it safe to assume that the rat(s) sleep in my house during the day and at night they are coming and going outside? Does this mean I've missed an access point?
2. Considering the inaccessibility, is it common to drill a hole in the ceiling (like a 4" hole for recessed lighting) to place traps in the attic for those inaccessible places? If I drill a hole, then I can stick a camera up there and take pictures to look for evidence, place the traps, monitor them, etc. But then I've got a hole to deal with.
3. Is it worth parking myself on the roof and patiently waiting to see where the rats are coming and going?
4. Have I given the beef jerkey snap-traps enough time to do their thing? Any other advice? Thanks for your help!
Los Angeles Rat Control Tip of The Week
Different Types Of Rat Snap Traps
Spring traps for big rodents, such as rats or squirrels, are powerful enough to break the animal's neck or spine. They may break human fingers too, while a customary spring-based mousetrap is probably not going to break a human finger. Rat spring traps may not be sufficiently delicate to spring when a mouse takes the bait.
A rat cage trap is a metal enclosure box-shaped gadget that is planned principally to get rats without killing them. Food bait (not poisoned) is placed in the cage trap. When an animal gets into the cage and moves towards the bait, the component triggers and shuts the door. The animal is caught alive and without injury. The animal can be relocated somewhere else or killed subsequently.
Glue traps are non-poisonous sticky glue that are spread over card sheets and kept in places rats visit, which gets them stuck to it when they pass over it. The rat will die from dehydration and suffocation. A bait may likewise be set on the cardboard to attract the rats.
Another type of non-deadly trap is where the wires used in its construction are cut and framed into a funnel shape directed to the cage's body. This design is usually dome-shaped with the funnel at the crown. Rats are very adaptable and can push through the smaller opening into the confine, but can't escape because of the closures of the wires poking them in the face. The advantage of this design is that it can catch more than one rat in a setting.