Kings County, New York City Rat Control Situation:
Hi, I found your site very informative and helpful. I live in a ground floor duplex in New York City and we have had a rat problem in between our two floors since last August. The management company has sent an exterminator out several times-- to remove carcasses from the ceiling, place rodenticide in the ceiling, and fill any holes outside the apartment building. The problem is still going on almost a year later and we can't seem to figure out how they are getting in.
There is definitely less scratching and scurrying now compared to a few months ago, but the smell is consistently unbearable as something dies in the ceiling every few weeks to the point that I am ready to just move out. I have asked the management company to take a more proactive approach to the problem rather than reactive when I call and complain, perhaps gut the ceiling to expose the problem area, but they don't seem willing to do it. I can imagine there are a lot of droppings and urine in addition to at least 3-4 dead carcasses. Would the smell disappate if no more rats could get in (i.e. if we found and closed the access points), or is that something that will just continue to fester?
I am trying to make a case to the management that it is necessary for them to clean all the droppings and carcasses to restore the apartment to a sanitary environment. I noticed on your site you mentioned that rats can smell the droppings and urine of other rats, indicating the area is a safe habitat. I also think opening the ceiling might expose the access points. Apparently my unit is the only one of 47 in the building with a reported rat problem. Do you have any suggestions? Best regards, Alexandra
My response: Sounds like a very tough case. The entry holes into the building, or at least, the apartment, must be found and sealed! Check behind the oven, for example. The odor will disappear as soon as all rats are gone and any biomass dries up.
Thanks for the response! I got them to remove the entire ceiling and they said they removed some carcasses and closed a bunch of holes inside. I was on a business trip the past week and will see the result tonight. Fingers crossed the problem is resolved!
New York City Rat Control Tip of The Week
Different Types Of Rat Snap Traps
Spring traps for big rodents, such as rats or squirrels, are powerful enough to break the animal's neck or spine. They may break human fingers too, while a customary spring-based mousetrap is probably not going to break a human finger. Rat spring traps may not be sufficiently delicate to spring when a mouse takes the bait.
A rat cage trap is a metal enclosure box-shaped gadget that is planned principally to get rats without killing them. Food bait (not poisoned) is placed in the cage trap. When an animal gets into the cage and moves towards the bait, the component triggers and shuts the door. The animal is caught alive and without injury. The animal can be relocated somewhere else or killed subsequently.
Glue traps are non-poisonous sticky glue that are spread over card sheets and kept in places rats visit, which gets them stuck to it when they pass over it. The rat will die from dehydration and suffocation. A bait may likewise be set on the cardboard to attract the rats.
Another type of non-deadly trap is where the wires used in its construction are cut and framed into a funnel shape directed to the cage's body. This design is usually dome-shaped with the funnel at the crown. Rats are very adaptable and can push through the smaller opening into the confine, but can't escape because of the closures of the wires poking them in the face. The advantage of this design is that it can catch more than one rat in a setting.
